Svalbard: northern hemisphere summer 2012. Road sign as we left Longyearbyen on Spitsbergen in the archipelago of Svalbard, Arctic Ocean. 79 degrees North.
The image and words translate to “watch out for polar bears everywhere on Svalbard.” This meant that, as tourists, we weren’t allowed to wander this island without a guide, and all the guides carried rifles. Our favourite polar bear sighting was from our ship - the bear was on sea ice, bright in the midnight sun, as it ate a seal it had just caught. We loved the icy, wild, sparse habitat of this protectorate of the United Nations, administered by Norway. John Longyear discovered very high grade (metallurgical standard) coal here in the late 1800s, which was used for the highest quality steel production. Prior to this discovery, the islands were used by sealers, whalers and Arctic fox hunters as a processing base, not belonging to any nation. But, despite these minor occupations, Svalbard had remained its own special space, where polar bears rule. - WENDY